Legend has it that Scorpion Atoll (Arrecife Alacranes) got its name from a group of 16th century Spanish shipwreck survivors. They described it as a place that killed their comrades slowly and painfully, like a scorpion sting.
Satellite view of Scorpion Atoll.
The notoriously treacherous reef is 70 miles north of Progreso, Mexico in the Gulf of Mexico. It has claimed many ships over the years, the rusty remnants of some still acting as stark warnings to seafarers. A lighthouse was added to the main island in the 1800s. Today, it’s inhabited by a lighthouse keeper and a small contingent of the Mexican Navy. The remaining islands around it see only birds, commercial fishermen, reveling yachters in the summer months and the occasional fly angler the rest of the year.
The average size bonefish at Scorpion Atoll ain’t average.
Very few anglers have heard of Scorpion Atoll, and few have fished it. Raul Castaneda, the guy who heads the only operation to Scorpion (www.scorpionatoll.com), was the first person to fly fish Scorpion in 2007. He estimates that fewer than 50 people have ever walked its flats with fly rod in hand. One of the most enticing things about fishing there – other than the unique opportunity to explore essentially virgin waters on foot – is that the bonefish there are BIG.
One island’s feathered inhabitants.
It’s relatively easy to reach: a short flight from Miami to Merida, Mexico, an hour car ride early the next morning to Progreso, and a 3-4.5 hour boat ride, depending on weather. You hop off and fish as soon as you arrive. If you’re tired, you can make your way back to the boat for a beer and fresh ceviche or take a nap on the beach. Each night is spent anchored off one of the islands. If you can shake the effects of the tequila from the night before, you can sneak out at first light and catch bonefish tailing as the sun comes up. It’s a dream for the adventurous fly angler: fishing different, beautiful areas each day, surrounded only by water, fish and birds.
Wandering the beach in pursuit of cruising bones.
My first trip to the atoll last year produced some of the most epic bonefishing I’ve ever experienced.
Our group caught huge numbers of the large, almost translucent bonefish that ate anything you threw. The first cast I made was ten feet, to a pair of large bonefish cruising next to the beach. Both pounced, despite the fact that I was standing above them in plain view, and the smaller fish grabbed it. It fought hard, taking me deep into my backing, and was a solid eight pounds. In general, the bonefish at Scorpion Atoll are much better-fed than in other places I’ve fished.
A solid permit caught while wading.
Our recent November trip was solid, with a number of big bonefish and one larger permit caught. The fish was about 15 pounds, caught on a morning that provided dozens of shots at big tailers. For the most part, the permit unfortunately still act like permit at Scorpion Reef. A number of small ones were caught, which bodes well for the upcoming years.
Triggerfish can also be targeted.
There are also opportunities to cast to triggerfish, cudas, sharks, snapper, jacks and other creatures that inhabit the area. The trip’s not for the faint of heart – sometimes rough boat rides, snug sleeping quarters and wading tough terrain. But in a a day where many places seem to be overfished, it’s nice to be calf-deep on a flat surrounded only by pristine water and uneducated fish.
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What an amazing article on such a unique fishery … I think the scorpion atoll just got put on my bucket list… those bone fish are unreal! Great piece!!! Certainly got me stoked!!!
Great article. Cannot wait to visit this remarkable fishery??